Traveling Flâneur
The courtyard of a grand Ottoman mosque at dusk, Istanbul, Turkey

Turkey

Six cities I explored, four routes that actually work, and the practical page. I wish someone had handed me that the first time.

Updated September 2026

Cities walked6
Itineraries4

What nobody tells you before you land

Turkey straddles two continents: Europe on one side of the Bosphorus, Asia on the other, and a whole country in between that most people never reach. Almost everyone lands in Istanbul and stops there — and misses that the real magic is inland and down the coast, a domestic flight or a long drive away.

So the routes below are built around distance, not a checklist. The country is huge: pair Istanbul in the northwest with a flight to Cappadocia in the center, then work the Aegean and Mediterranean coast by road. Domestic flights are cheap and frequent — use them, and keep the coast for when you have the days.

Fact sheet

Everything practical, on one page

01CapitalAnkara — but Istanbul is the big one.
02LanguageTurkish; some English in tourist areas.
03CurrencyTurkish lira (TRY). High inflation — cards work widely, but carry some cash.
04Population~86 million
05VisaMany nationalities need an e-visa (apply at evisa.gov.tr); check current rules before you fly.
06Best timeApr–Jun & Sep–Oct — mild, clear and fewer crowds.
07AirportsIST · SAW · ADB · AYT
08Time zoneUTC+3, no daylight saving.
09PlugType C/F · 230V
10Tipping~10% in restaurants; a little for guides.
11GeographyStraddles two continents — Europe and Asia, split by the Bosphorus.
12BudgetMid-range ~US$50–70/day.

Itineraries

Four routes that actually work

Seven days is the minimum for Istanbul and Cappadocia without rushing. Twenty-one is the whole loop, coast included.

7days
Istanbul4 days
Cappadocia3 days

Four days for Istanbul on both continents, then a short flight to Cappadocia for the fairy chimneys and a dawn balloon. The version for one week.

10days
Istanbul3 days
Cappadocia3 days
Ephesus2 days
Pamukkale2 days

The extra days go west: fly to İzmir for the Roman ruins of Ephesus, then the white travertine terraces and Hierapolis at Pamukkale.

14days
Istanbul3 days
Cappadocia3 days
Ephesus2 days
Pergamon1 day
Pamukkale2 days
Antalya3 days

The full Aegean line — the ruins of Pergamon at Bergama on the way down — and then the Mediterranean at Antalya, with old Kaleiçi and the Lycian coast within reach.

21days
Istanbul4 days
Cappadocia3 days
Ephesus2 days
Pergamon1 day
Pamukkale2 days
Antalya3 days

The one I'd take. Istanbul and Cappadocia in full, the whole Aegean coast from Pergamon to Pamukkale, and Antalya as the base for the Lycian coast (Fethiye) — with a detour to Konya if you have the time.

City guides

Six cities, walked one street at a time

Marmara

Istanbul

Two continents in one city — Hagia Sophia, the bazaars, and the ferries across the Bosphorus.

4 days · Coming soon
Central Anatolia

Cappadocia

Göreme, the fairy chimneys and cave hotels — and the dawn balloons that made it famous.

3 days · Coming soon
Aegean

Ephesus

The Roman ruins near Selçuk — the Library of Celsus and one of the best-preserved ancient cities.

2 days · Coming soon
Aegean

Pergamon

The hilltop acropolis at Bergama — the steep theatre and the ancient healing centre below.

1 day · Coming soon
Aegean

Pamukkale

The white travertine terraces and the Roman ruins of Hierapolis on the ridge above them.

2 days · Coming soon
Mediterranean

Antalya

The Mediterranean coast and old Kaleiçi — the harbour, the walls and the base for the Lycian coast.

3 days · Coming soon

Asked every week

Questions I get about Turkey

How many days do I need?+

Seven is the minimum for Istanbul and Cappadocia without rushing. Ten adds the Aegean (Ephesus and Pamukkale); fourteen adds Pergamon and the Mediterranean at Antalya; twenty-one is the whole loop with time for the Lycian coast.

Do I need an e-visa?+

Many nationalities do — it's a quick online application at the official evisa.gov.tr portal, and others are visa-free for short stays. Rules change, so check your own passport's requirements before you fly rather than relying on an old blog.

Cards or cash, with the inflation?+

The lira has high inflation, so prices move — but cards work almost everywhere, from restaurants to museums. Carry some cash for markets, small towns, taxis and tipping, and withdraw in local currency rather than letting an ATM convert for you.

When should I go?+

Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) are the sweet spots — mild, clear and with fewer crowds. Summer is hot on the coast and busy; winter is quiet, with snow in Cappadocia and central Anatolia.

Are the Cappadocia balloons worth it?+

Yes — the dawn flight over the fairy chimneys is the image everyone comes for, and it lives up to it. Flights depend on the weather and sell out, so book early and leave a spare morning: if yours is cancelled for wind, you'll want a second chance.

The podcast

I walked this before I wrote it

Every guide starts as an episode. Listen to the Turkey introduction — the context, the history and the honest bits — then come back for the routes.